To Bio or not to Bio. Sense and nonsense about organic wine.

Sense and nonsense about organic wine

Is organic wine always better?

Since 2012, the EU has approved and regulated the term organic wine . Previously, organic wine was only made from organically grown grapes. Now, organic winemaking in the cellar is also recognized. Demand for organic, biodynamic, and so-called "natural" and "orange" wines is rising. Some winemakers have already taken the horse out of the stable and put their heavy, soil-compacting tractors on Marktplaats. But is organic wine always better for people and the environment?

What's the situation?

Before a winemaker can use the EU logo, or for example, Demeter or Ecovin, on their label, they must meet a host of requirements. And they must pay a hefty price for certification. Many smaller winemakers therefore operate organically or biodynamically, but without certification. Therefore, it's important to familiarize yourself with the winemaker and how they operate. Moreover, there are regulations that raise questions when considering the entire winemaking process.

Mildew

For example, organic winemakers are only allowed to spray with copper sulfate solutions against diseases (particularly powdery mildew (a.k.a. oidium) and downy mildew (a.k.a. peronospora ). This introduces the heavy metal copper into the soil. This copper-containing spray is better known in the wine world as Bordeaux mixture , recognizable by the copper-green color on the vine leaves.

The strange thing is that many certifiers even require organic winegrowers to only spray Bordeaux mixture! They use it as sparingly as possible, of course. But when it's hot and humid, they simply can't avoid it. They may even have to spray more often than a conventional winegrower...

Others (like our Storr winery) therefore opt for so-called systemic, biodegradable agents. These don't contain heavy metals like copper. And they don't require a diesel-guzzling tractor to apply them. This also reduces soil compaction caused by the tractor's weight. And all of this, in turn, contributes to healthier and more vibrant soil. But while the wines may not be organic, the matter is a bit more nuanced.

Biodynamic wines

Biodynamic, or simply biodynamic, goes much further than organic viticulture. Biodynamic wines are made according to the anthroposophical principles of Rudolf Steiner . Steiner was an Austrian philosopher and anthropologist who lived from 1861 to 1925.
The vineyard is an ecosystem that must be in perfect balance. Therefore, biodiversity is encouraged through the use of plants, insects, and natural pesticides. Homeopathic remedies enhance the vineyard's vitality and life force.

The position of the moon and other celestial bodies determines the timing of many activities. This applies, for example, to pruning, harvesting, and bottling times throughout the year. Biodynamic wines usually carry the Demeter quality mark in addition to the EU organic logo.

Naturnah and Terra Vitis

In German-speaking countries, sustainable practices are called "nachhaltig" or "naturnah," meaning close to nature. Our wines are labeled "sustainable" when the winemaker practices this method. This can go even further than simply organic or biodynamic practices. The entire supply chain can be involved, ensuring minimal environmental impact. Working conditions can also be considered. Such a holistic approach is advocated by Terra Vitis , a French initiative. The same applies to Fair 'n Green in Germany.

Biowarfare

Vines are threatened by numerous plant diseases and insect pests. The healthier the plant, the more resistant it is. Winemakers help the plant with this through biowarfare : the use of other plants and insects that don't give the bad guys a chance. For example, you can plant herbs between the vines that attract insects that eat the disease-carrying pests.

Another trick is to hang bait stations for harmful insects. This traps the males, resulting in fewer or no offspring. Also helpful: provide birds that eat the harmful insects with good nesting and breeding sites. Plant the right trees and shrubs nearby. And instead of artificial fertilizers, you can plant nitrogen-fixing plants, such as lupine , to provide sufficient nutrients for the vines. Various natural sprays have also been developed, for example, those based on nettle and chamomile .
The whole idea behind this is to cultivate the healthiest vines and a biodiverse environment possible. The stronger the vines, the less susceptible they are to diseases and pests.

Natural wine and Orange wine, hit or shit?

Vin nature, vin naturel, naked wine, natural wine, or vino vero all mean the same thing. The term "low" or "non-intervention" wine better describes this type of wine. These wines come from winemakers who minimize human intervention from vineyard to bottling. Essentially, winemaking is as it was thousands of years ago. Fermentation occurs entirely without additives or artificial additives, often in an earthenware vessel. Wines are bottled unfiltered, preferably without adding sulfites.

Orange wine and natural wine can be a bit stale. These wines often have a distinct flavor, usually due to (slight) oxidation. Natural wine is wine made with virtually no artificial additives. And to which little or no sulfites have been added. Incidentally, some sulfites are always naturally formed during fermentation, so it's always present (at least a little).

Sulfites protect a wine from oxidation (and thus from vinegar formation). The winemaker must work extremely carefully to keep the sulfite-free wine stable in the bottle. A disadvantage of sulfite-free wines is that there can be significant flavor variations from bottle to bottle. But when they're good, they're often magnificent.

Did you know, by the way, that a bag of chips contains significantly more sulfites than a bottle of wine? Wine writer Niels van Laatum has written an easy-to-read book about it: Natuurwijn, een helder verhaal over murky wine.

At Lekker Sapje ​​you will also find natural and orange wines , and of the good kind of course.

Orange wines are white wines with an orangey hue. Orange wine is made using an age-old method. Grape bunches, juice and all, are placed in a large amphora or quevri , for example. The grapes are also added to white wine. This creates tannins and adds color to the white wine. Cover, allow for spontaneous fermentation, and after three months, see if it's any good. The tannins protect the wine from oxidation for a while. This can be fantastic, but there's also a risk of volatile acidity. These are volatile acids like acetic acid that impart a sharp, acetone flavor. Of course, you can also make red wine this way. It's trendy now; the wines are often pricey compared to their quality, but it can also be very good. There's also a great book about this in English by Simon Woolfe: Amber Revolution .

France recently introduced the Vin Méthode Nature label . There's a three-year trial period for this label. Fifty winemakers are currently participating. If successful, it will be expanded within France and other European countries.

Ok, so what can you do with organic wine?

The sense and nonsense of organic wine: you see, there's a lot involved. If you want to do it properly and truly sustainably, you have to consider the entire process, including bottle weight, transport, packaging, water and energy consumption in winemaking, and so on . The final word on this topic is certainly not yet spoken, and we naturally advocate for wines that are as sustainable as possible. Lekker Sapje's offering is based on this principle. New wines in our range are always organic or biodynamic. Our transporters offset their CO2 emissions.

Breaking news : a sulfite replacement is coming to market. We'll let you know as soon as we know more. More information is available at www.biologica.nl.

Concepts of 'green' ecologically responsible viticulture:

• Lutte Raisonnée
• Organic viticulture
• Biodynamic viticulture
• Vin Nature / natural wine / orange wine

Organizations and quality marks for 'green' ecologically responsible wine growing:

• Terra Vitis
• Fair 'n' Green
• Integrity and Sustainability Certified
• Sustainable Wine Roundtable
• Demeter
• HVE (haut valeur environmentale)
• Ecovin

Overview of logos for organic wine, etc.

The left logo below is for organic wines from the EU. It has been permitted on the label since the 2012 vintage. The middle logo is also permitted and is primarily used in Germany. The Vegan logo only indicates the method of fining the wine; no animal products have been used. The Demeter logo indicates that the wine is biodynamic.

Sense and nonsense about organic wine, To Bio or not to Bio